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Did the first 2 kits you bought work correctly when assembled? Are they the same version of the PCB?

Can you compare the PCB you have with the design on Solderpad http://solderpad.com/git/openenergymon/emonglcd/tree/emonGLCD_V1.5.brd (Best to download Eagle CAD to view the layout.)

the first 2 kits was 1.4 and they had no problem when assembled. my two new emonglcd are 1.5.

what differences I can see between the card and the image to be sure it's really a 1.5?

Oh dear, very sorry to hear your having issues. Please could you post a photo of the assembled emonglcd showing the components 

The version number is on the component side of the PCB. On the V1.4, it is to the right of "emonGLCD". For the V1.5, it is above the 'D' of emonGLCD. As far as I am aware, the changes between V1.4 and V1.5 are as documented on the build page: the reversed capacitor problem has been corrected and so has the fault with the JeePort.

You do have C13 & C14 inserted as marked on the PCB?

this is my first emonglcd fully bought from store; as you can see I removed the electronic capacitors during my tests.

http://i57.tinypic.com/ipqcd4.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/2dqva09.jpg

this is my second emonglcd bought only pcb, atmega and rfm; the other compotents are bought from my local store; as you can see I left the legs longer on the eletronic capacitors to make easy to remove them.

http://i59.tinypic.com/vqrsy8.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/2h58k13.jpg

@Robert Wall: yes I have the C13 and C14 as on the pcb.

I don't know if Glyn or Robert will be able to spot anything, but nothing jumps out at me, assuming the components you sourced are fine. When I get this kind of problem I usually go over the solder joints again a couple of times, but it looks like you have probably done that.

Il build an EmonGLCD up to the test stage next time Im in the lab and send it to you assuming it passes, looks like you've spent enough time trying to get it to work already.

I could not spot anything either.  I wondered whether you had done a valid test: When you do the display test by holding the GLCD in position, did you bend it to make certain all the pins were contacting their respective holes, and then power the board? If some pins are not making contact at power-up and do not remain remain in contact, the test fails. Also, part of the voltage multiplier circuitry is inside the display, so you will not read the correct voltages unless the display is in position and connected, even if the rest of the assembly is correct.

Have you looked underneath the processor to make sure a leg has not missed the socket and folded underneath?

I clean the excess flux off my GLCDs (or any PCB) using a small stiff brush and white spirit, then wash with soap and warm water and leave to thoroughly dry. That makes it a lot easier to see any bad joints or solder splashes or whiskers. (I do that before soldering the RFM12B, as any water that gets underneath will take a long time to dry out.)

@TrystanLea I think I passed over the welds at least a dozen times, I double checked several times the electrical capacitors. My fear is that there is a lot of pcb flawed. Now I do not have to do more tests. thanks for your availability, I'll keep waiting a soldered pcb without display.

@Robert Wall: yes, all tests were done with the connected display (but not soldered). This evening I will try to remove the processor, but you want this problem to occur twice in a row?

Thanks to all for your advice!

No, I did not want it to occur twice - but I've been caught out many times by the fault that is so simple that everyone overlooked the possibility that it could happen, so to be safe I mentioned everything I could think of.

As you say, it is looking as if it could be a fault on the PCB.

ok Robert, this evening I'll try to remove the atmega, when I'll check with tester all pins of socket. finally I'll check all pins of atmega. thanks

@Robert Wall nothing to do: I checked each pin of socket with tester and and the end I check atmega pin.

you told me that the multiplier is in the display, it may be that my display (which I used on two cards) is faulty?

My toddler inadvertently dropped a bare LCD when "helping" me build the GLCD and it suffered some small fractures near the pins. They are very hard to see - it could be the cause though.

I believe the display is a Sitronix ST7565R. If you get the data sheet, on p18 you can see the capacitors going into a block labelled "Voltage booster circuit". It is all part of the internal power supply arrangement.

If everything else is good (and no-one seems to be able to see another reason for it not working), then it does seem possible that the display itself is damaged or faulty.

I'm agree. you can get a new display to replace this?

@modenet, I've built up a display here and its working, will sent it in the post on monday.

thank you very much for your availability

I've received the pcb; thanks for your pcb I could do some tests: the problem seem to be the power of usb programmer that is not sufficient for the screen. when I connected your pcb + lcd with my usb programmer I saw nothing, as my pcb! but I knew that your worked.

I've build a usb cable to connect the microusb pin on pcb to a normal usb power supply and... surprise! I can see the graphic on lcd. after I did the same test on my first pcb and I had the same result.

the programmer was connected to my laptop used to see serial output or to program atmega and I had no problem with this pc. maybe a problem on the usb programmer? is this the first case?

thanks again for support.